Nice

The 4-kilometre seafront boulevard that defines Nice. Flanked by grand Belle Époque hotels, palm trees, and the shimmering Baie des Anges, it is the quintessential Riviera promenade. Walk it at dawn for a peaceful experience; join the city's joggers and cyclists at sunrise before the tourist crowds arrive. The blue chairs (Chaises Bleues) placed along the promenade are a Nice icon — free to sit in and perfectly positioned for sea-watching.

The old town is a labyrinth of tall, narrow streets painted in rust-red, ochre, and gold — Baroque facades in Piedmontese Italian style that reflect Nice's Savoyard and Italian past. Cours Saleya is its sun-drenched heart: a long square hosting one of France's most celebrated markets. Tuesday through Sunday morning it bursts with flowers, produce, and Niçoise food stalls. On Mondays the market transforms into a sprawling antiques fair. This is where socca (chickpea pancake), pissaladière (caramelised onion tart), and pan bagnat (tuna sandwich) are best consumed — standing up, straight from the vendor.

Despite the name, there is no longer a castle on Castle Hill — it was demolished in 1706. What remains is a beautiful terraced park at the eastern end of the old town offering the finest panoramic view in Nice: the sweep of the Baie des Anges, the ochre rooftops of Vieux Nice, and the port all in one glance. Reached by stairs (free), lift (€1.50), or a short walk, the hill also contains a waterfall, a cemetery, and shaded benches. Sunset from the top is unmissable.

Nice's grand central square, rebuilt in the 1840s in a distinctive red pastel Italianate style with arcaded ground floors. The square connects the new town to the old, bridges the broad Paillon river park (now paved but historically a dividing line), and anchors the tram network. At night, the square's fountains and the contemporary sculpture installation above — seven seated figures by artist Jaume Plensa — are lit dramatically. An excellent orientation point and central meeting place.

Henri Matisse lived and worked in Nice for much of his life and is buried in the Franciscan monastery gardens in Cimiez, a quiet hillside neighbourhood above the city centre. The Musée Matisse occupies a 17th-century Genoese villa surrounded by olive trees and holds the world's most complete permanent collection of his works — drawings, paintings, sculptures, and cut-outs. Adjacent to the museum are the Roman ruins of Cemenelum (Cimiez's Roman-era predecessor), including a well-preserved amphitheatre. The neighbourhood has a tranquil, residential character completely different from the seafront bustle below.

Marc Chagall personally oversaw the design of this dedicated museum, which opened in 1973 and is now the world's largest permanent collection of his works. The centrepiece is a cycle of 17 monumental paintings depicting scenes from the Hebrew Bible, displayed in a purpose-built hall with extraordinary natural light. The tranquil garden, the stained-glass windows in the auditorium, and the mosaic reflecting pool create a contemplative environment that feels entirely different from a standard museum. A deeply humanist and moving experience.

A stunning 1929 Art Deco palace facade on the Promenade des Anglais — preserved while the building behind it was controversially demolished and rebuilt as a hotel in the 2000s. The facade alone is worth a look: geometric ornament, white limestone, and the grand sculpted figures above the entrance represent the peak of Riviera glamour. The interior now houses a luxury hotel and casino.

The Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas, completed in 1912 for the Russian aristocracy who wintered on the Riviera, is the largest Russian Orthodox cathedral outside Russia. Its six onion domes and vivid polychrome exterior stand in glorious contrast to the surrounding French Riviera streets. The interior features rich iconostasis screens, candlelit icons, and a peaceful atmosphere. A reminder that Nice's winter resort culture attracted not just the English but Russian nobility in equal measure.

Nice's working harbour, a short walk east of the old town, has transformed into a lively neighbourhood of restaurants, bars, and independent boutiques around a beautiful 18th-century port basin. Ferry services to Corsica and Sardinia depart from here. The quaysides in the evening — lined with bobbing boats and outdoor terraces — offer a more local atmosphere than the tourist-heavy promenade.